From Entebbe to Nairobi
After an unforgettable gorilla trek in Uganda, the next leg of our African adventure took us to Kenya for a full-scale, up-close safari experience. This time, we weren’t staying in distant hotels or lodges – we were going full immersion: tented camps inside the reserves, where the animals were our neighbors and the wilderness began right outside our canvas walls.
We left from Entebbe International Airport and flew to Jomo Kenyatta International in Nairobi. Unfortunately, our flight got in after dark, so we missed our chance to really explore the city or visit Nairobi National Park, which had been part of the plan. Still, we got our first glimpses of Kenyan wildlife that night – a small herd of water buffalo crossed the road as we drove in. They were massive.
We stayed that night at Nairobi Tented Camp, tucked away in a riverine forest inside the national park, just 30 minutes from the airport. It’s a one-of-a-kind place where city meets wilderness, and though we didn’t get to explore much in daylight, it was clear this was going to be a special chapter.
Elephant Kingdom: Amboseli National Park
The next morning, we set out for our first major stop: Amboseli National Park, specifically the Selenkay Conservancy, where we stayed at Porini Amboseli Camp.
Driving into the park, we had our first true “safari moment” – thousands of flamingos rising from the marshes in a pink cloud, and wildlife everywhere: zebras, giraffes, antelope, all roaming as freely as cattle. It was shocking how plentiful the animals were – and how casually they inhabited the land.
Not long into the park, our guides received a radio call. We pulled up alongside other safari vehicles just in time to see a lion finishing a kill from earlier that morning. Hyenas and vultures were circling, but the massive male lion made it clear who was in charge. A single roar, and they all scattered.
But the most remarkable part of Amboseli? The elephants. We saw hundreds of them – marching, bathing, playing. There’s a reason this place is known as elephant camp. And behind it all, towering in the distance, was Mount Kilimanjaro – the perfect backdrop to an unforgettable few days.
Rhinos, Giraffes, and Flashlights: Ol Pejeta Conservancy
After two nights in Amboseli, we took a prop plane north to Laikipia, landing in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy to stay at Porini Rhino Camp – and it may have been the highlight of the entire safari.
This camp sits in the foothills of Mount Kenya, right on a semi-permanent stream, and the wildlife doesn’t wait for you to go out and find it – it comes to you. When I walked to my tent, giraffes wandered casually by. By dinner, elephants were strolling through camp to visit the watering hole. We watched them in awe as we ate.
The next day we had our first rhino sightings – both black and southern white rhinos together on the open plains. We visited a conservation facility and fed a blind black rhino, an intimate and touching moment. Later, we spotted a cheetah family fresh from a kill, and that night we even saw a leopard slink through camp, its eyes glowing in our flashlights.
This camp also houses four of the last seven Northern white rhinos left on Earth – a sobering reminder of what’s at stake. Porini Rhino Camp’s community-based conservation efforts, and their partnership with the Maasai people, made this experience not just powerful, but purposeful.
Last Stop: Porini Lion Camp, Masai Mara
Our final leg of safari brought us to the legendary Masai Mara National Reserve, staying at Porini Lion Camp in the Olare Motogori Conservancy.
Immediately upon arriving, we found a lion pride with cubs, watching them wrestle and tumble through the grass like oversized kittens. The Masai Mara was unlike anything we’d seen – vast open plains, rivers teeming with hippos and crocodiles, and enormous herds of wildebeest in migration, blackening the floodplains as they passed.
That night, we were woken up by a hippo brushing against our tent. We were startled at first, then just… in awe.
On our last day, we woke up at 4:00 AM for a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the Mara. I’d never been in one before, and I was surprised how high we went. From the sky, we could see the savannah stretch forever – herds of elephants, zebras, and antelope dotting the land like toys. It was breathtaking.
Later that afternoon, we had our final game drive – and one of the coolest moments of the entire trip. A huge group of grazing herbivores suddenly froze and stared in the same direction. We couldn’t see it at first, but then one of them spotted a lion on the hunt and alerted the others. We watched the chain reaction – a web of survival instincts playing out in real time.
A Note on Cultural Distance
As incredible as the safari experience was, I’d be remiss not to mention one of my few regrets.
Unlike other trips I’ve taken, we didn’t connect much with local communities. The camps were wonderful, and the staff – many of whom were Maasai – were generous in sharing their stories. But it still felt like we were in a tourist bubble, cordoned off from the real rhythms of Kenyan life.
Everywhere we stayed was guarded, secured, and fenced in. Even entering the airport required a security checkpoint. It was a stark contrast to other places I’ve visited where the lines between tourism and daily life were more porous, and I missed that. Hopefully next time, I’ll be able to go deeper.
Farewell (for now)
After one last meal and many thanks to the incredible staff, we said our goodbyes. My parents and sister prepared to head home, and Summer and I boarded our next flight – bound for something ancient, wild, and completely different.
Next stop: Cairo.
– Vince